As you can see in the image, My Dashboard
makes it easy for me to monitor my cell. I can drive down the roads with
confidence that the cell is working safely. Do I need all of these monitors?
Good question. Do I want all of them? Oh Yeah! I love it. Here is run down
on my gauges and switches:
- Cell On/Off - is wired to my Ignition switch. The cell can not be
turned on unless the Ignition Key has been turned on. This is an important
factor. It keeps me from forgetting to turn the cell off. I made that
mistake once; it almost locked my motor up. You see, I left the cell
running for 20 minutes or so. When I realized what I had done, I tried to
see if the vehicle would start. The first spark went -- BANG - I mean a
LOUD - BANG. One or two cylinders were under pressure from the HHO the
cell was producing. Somehow, the HHO was leaking out, but still, there was
a lot of pressure. I didn't think to check. I just hit the switch. I am
telling you, we had one heck of a time unlocking the motor. It was jammed.
The battery was near dead, and the motor would not turn over. So take a
little advise; wire the cell to your Ignition switch, and use a
Cut-Off-Switch to control the cell while the vehicle is running. If for
any reason you want to turn it off, while driving, you can.
- PWM - This is a Potentiometer that is wired back to the Pulse Width
Modulator. It controls the voltage sent to the cell. As voltage is
increased, current is increased. In the video, I show how the current can
be adjusted any where between zero and 80 amps. This is very handy in cold
weather. It is so much easier to adjust the water Electrolytes for high
output, then control that output with the PWM. This is why I chose an 80
amp. I demonstrate my cell output for a lot of people, so the 80 amps
allows me to kick out the HHO. It is kind of like having a 200 mile per
hour car. You don't need to go that fast, but it is nice to know you can.
- Amp Meter - Shows how much current is being drawn by the cell.
Adjusting the PWM changes the reading. This meter is wired to a DC Shunt.
The shunt is wired to the positive wire between the 12 volt relay and the
PWM. The meter gets its power from a 5 volt DC to DC converter.
- Amp Meter On/Off Switch - The switch is to the left of the amp meter.
It allows me to turn the amp meter on and off.
- MAP Adjust and Meter - Allows me to change the voltage the MAP sensor
sends to my computer. Normal is 4.9 volts for me. I can turn that voltage
down and decrease the amount of gasoline sent to my Throttle Body fuel
Injector. It can be used stall the motor. If you are interested in having
Power, don't lower this sensors voltage.
- .EFIE On/Off Switch - Allows me to turn On or Off, the EFIE circuit
that adds voltage to the Oxygen Sensors voltage. I add 200 millivolts,
which tricks the computer into thinking it is sending too much gas to the
cylinders. The computer backs off. When the switch is turned off, the O2
sensor voltage bypasses the EFIE and goes straight to the computer.
- Cell Temperature - At one time, I had a temperature gauge on the dash.
It was a cheap $8.00 outfit with a sensor on the end of a wire. I fastened
the sensor to the cell container with metal tape. The wire ran through the
engine compartment and into the cab. It worked great. Especially handy n
winter. The sensor got torn off - while I was 4 wheeling, but I never
replaced it.
- Vacuum Gauge - Now and then I connect a vacuum gauge inline with the
cell. I needed it when I was using Baking Soda as an Electrolyte. The BS
would clog my vacuum adjustment valve and I would not know it. The vacuum
Gauge let me know when something was wrong.
- Battery Voltage - I also have a digital volt meter plugged into my
cigarette lighter. I think this is a necessity. It is the best indicator
of how healthy your alternator is; and not just the alternator, but the
belt driving the alternator. If the belt is worn, your voltage will drop;
your battery will not get charged completely. Many people have asked me
why I fuse my cell for 80 amps, when I have a 55 amp alternator. I tell
them, it is to protect my PWM, not my alternator. The alternator supplies
power to all of your electronics, not just the cell. If you are worried
about the cell overloading your alternator, just monitor the battery
voltage. It tells all.
If you read and survived all of the above information, you have probably
figured out I know what is best for my HHO Generator. I am here to tell you,
it has been a long road figuring this stuff out. I picked up bits of
information here and there, from different youtubers and friends. But most
of my solutions come from my younger years of drag racing, dirt track
racing, and military electronics. I learned to trust my instincts and to
stand up for what I believe in. It has never failed me. |
